Viareggio
Overview
Viareggio is an elegant Tuscan seaside town, renowned for its beaches and its Art Nouveau architecture. The promenade is lined with cafés and boutiques, while the famous Carnival, one of the most important in Italy, brings a burst of color and creativity with its elaborate floats. The city blends seaside relaxation with a vibrant cultural tradition, making it a beloved destination for many.
Gastronomy
Viareggio boasts a rich and delicious cuisine, deeply tied to maritime traditions and the flavors of the sea. The Cacciucco alla Viareggina is an iconic dish, a fish stew prepared with various types of fresh fish, shellfish, and mollusks, slowly cooked in a tomato-based sauce with garlic, red wine, and chili pepper. It is served with toasted bread rubbed with garlic.
Tordelli Viareggini are handmade ravioli filled with a mix of beef and pork, seasoned with spices and served with a hearty meat sauce.
Another traditional dish is Pasta alla Trabaccolara, a recipe born from the local fishermen who worked on “trabaccoli” boats. It features a sauce made from a mix of inexpensive fish cooked with tomatoes, garlic, and chili pepper, reflecting the simplicity and authenticity of Viareggio’s cuisine while offering a rich sea flavor.
Equally popular is Frittura di Paranza, a mix of freshly caught small fish from the Tyrrhenian Sea, such as mullet, anchovies, and squid, lightly floured and fried until crispy. It is typically served with lemon wedges.
On the dessert front, Scarpaccia Dolce is a traditional Viareggio sweet, a humble dish made with zucchini, flour, sugar, milk, eggs, and aromatic ingredients like vanilla and lemon zest. This moist and delicately sweet cake originated among fishing families and has become a beloved delicacy throughout Viareggio.
Wine and beverages
The city also offers a fascinating variety of beverages that reflect the region’s traditions and convivial habits.
One of the most iconic drinks is Ponce alla Livornese, a hot beverage made from coffee, sugar, and rum or “sassolino,” served with a lemon peel. Although originally from Livorno, ponce is popular along the Tyrrhenian coast, including Viareggio, where it is perfect for cooler evenings or as a digestif after a seafood meal.
Another classic is the Artisanal Tuscan Vermouth, often enjoyed as an aperitif in the historic bars along the promenade. This aromatized wine, infused with local herbs, pairs perfectly with seafood dishes and typical local appetizers.
For those seeking a refreshing option in summer, the Bianco della Versilia is a light and fragrant white wine produced in the nearby hills, frequently served in trattorias alongside bluefish dishes. Among red wines, Rosso di Bolgheri is one of the most appreciated choices in Viareggio’s restaurants, elegantly complementing both seafood and Tuscan meat dishes.
Finally, the Versilia Gin has recently gained popularity among spirits enthusiasts. Crafted with local botanicals such as Apuan juniper and Mediterranean herbs, this gin embodies the essence of the region and is featured in the city’s most sophisticated cocktail bars.
Points of interest
Viareggio is a city rich in history, culture, and natural beauty, offering a wide range of activities for every type of visitor. One of its highlights is its port, one of the Mediterranean’s most important hubs for luxury yacht construction. Here, visitors can admire some of the world’s most exclusive boats and experience the atmosphere of a leading nautical center.
Strolling through the city reveals an open-air museum thanks to its splendid Art Nouveau buildings. The Passeggiata Margherita, the Gran Caffè Margherita, and Villa Argentina are just a few examples of this artistic heritage that makes Viareggio unique.
Culture enthusiasts can explore the city’s museums, including the Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art (GAMC), which houses over 3,000 artworks, the Maritime Museum, dedicated to the city’s nautical traditions, and the Matilde Tower, an ancient military structure now transformed into a multimedia museum with a breathtaking terrace overview.
Another must-see attraction is the collection of historic villas, such as Villa Paolina, the residence of Napoleon’s sister, now a venue for events and exhibitions; Villa Borbone, nestled in the nature of the Migliarino San Rossore Park; and Villa Museo Puccini, the former home of the famous composer, overlooking the picturesque Lake Massaciuccoli.
A few kilometers away lies Torre del Lago Puccini, a district of Viareggio famous for its connection to the Maestro Puccini and for the Gran Teatro all’Aperto, which hosts the annual Puccini Festival. Here, visitors can take boat trips on the lake, enjoy unspoiled beaches, and walk along the lakeside immersed in the silence of nature.
Viareggio is also a renowned floriculture center, with extensive poinsettia cultivations exported across Italy, and a global reference point for the luxury yacht industry, with shipyards producing some of the world’s most sought-after vessels.
Castelnovo ne' Monti
Overview
Castelnovo ne’ Monti, located on the slopes of the Reggiano Apennines, is a village immersed in greenery, perfect for those seeking peace and nature. The town is known for its proximity to the Parco Nazionale dell’Appennino Tosco-Emiliano, where visitors can enjoy hiking, trekking, and visit the famous Pietra di Bismantova, one of the most emblematic geological formations in the region. Castelnovo serves as a departure point for discovering the culinary traditions and natural beauty of the Reggiano mountains.
Gastronomy
In the shops of Castelnovo’s center and in the dairy outlets, visitors can find many excellent local products. In addition to Parmigiano Reggiano, there is also local pecorino cheese, fresh porcini mushrooms in season and dried ones year-round, jams, cured meats, sweets, and the unmissable erbazzone, a savory pie made with chard and spinach.
The mountain version of erbazzone is a dish that unites tradition, history, and a unique flavor, making it beloved by both locals and visitors. It originated centuries ago as a humble peasant dish, using simple garden and wild herbs available in different seasons, enriched with pastry, lard, and aromatic seasonings.
Traditionally, it was baked in a round copper mold called “al sol” in the bread oven, and the entire Reggiano community competed to make the best one. The mountain variety stands out for the addition of rice, a practice dating back to when local women worked as “mondine” (rice field workers) in the plains, receiving sacks of rice as part of their wages, which they then incorporated into the classic erbazzone recipe.
Wine and beverages
In terms of viticulture, Castelnovo ne’ Monti mainly relies on surrounding areas known for their high-quality wines. Among the reds, Lambrusco reigns supreme, a sparkling ruby-red wine with a lively flavor, perfect for pairing with traditional Emilian dishes. The most appreciated varieties include Lambrusco Grasparossa, known for its full-bodied and tannic character, and Lambrusco Reggiano, which is lighter and fruitier.
Among the whites, Spergola is a rediscovered native grape variety from the Reggio Emilia area, producing fresh, slightly aromatic wines with pleasant acidity, ideal as an aperitif or paired with fish and local cheeses.
However, Castelnovo ne’ Monti is especially known for its artisanal liqueurs. Thanks to the abundance of wild fruits and aromatic plants thriving in the Apennines, the region offers a variety of unique-flavored spirits. Among the most traditional is Nocino, made from green walnuts harvested in June following an ancient tradition. The result is a dark, intense liqueur with a rich and enveloping taste, ideal as a digestif.
Another typical liqueur is Mirtillino, prepared with small wild blueberries from the local forests. Its sweet yet slightly tart flavor makes it a delightful after-dinner drink when served chilled. Other popular spirits include those made from juniper, wild sloes, and other local berries, crafted according to recipes passed down through generations.
Points of interest
A visit to Castelnovo ne’ Monti is not complete without a climb to the Pietra di Bismantova, a uniquely shaped sandstone formation resting on clay marl, famously mentioned by Dante Alighieri in the Divine Comedy (Purgatorio, Canto IV) and depicted in paintings by Correggio.
Other attractions include the ancient Pieve di Campiliola, the remains of the medieval Matildic tower on Monte Castello, which served as a fortress until the 1400s, and in the main village of Felina, the circular tower known as “Il Salame”, the last standing structure of a 12th-century castle.
A must-see in Castelnovo is also the local dairies, where mountain Parmigiano Reggiano, one of the world’s finest cheeses, is produced. The town is home to five dairies: Il Fornacione in Felina, Latteria Casale di Bismantova, Latteria Sociale Cagnola, the Carnola dairy, and Latteria Sociale di Garfagnolo.
Castelnovo also boasts a rich cultural and musical program, with the Cinema Teatro Bismantova at its core. In recent decades, the town has invested heavily in the “Castelnovo, Town for Sports” project, hosting annual competitions in various sports, from volleyball to mountain biking, and developing top-tier sports facilities. These include the CONI athletics center, multiple gyms, and the new Palasport, built in collaboration with the Federazione Sport Sordi Italia (Italian Deaf Sports Federation), which will be completed by 2025.
This project thrives on community engagement, collaboration with local sports associations, and integration with the Ospedale Sant’Anna, the main healthcare center for the southern province of Reggio Emilia.
