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A colossal Alpine stage, crossing over to Switzerland. After the start, the route passes the Swiss border to negotiate the never-ending San Bernardino Pass (24 km), clearing the summit above 2,000 metres. After the descent, the riders will rise again to over 2,000 metres, to negotiate the Splügen Pass. A technical descent (passing through a few tunnels and an avalanche gallery) will lead all the way to the foot of the closing climb in Campodolcino.
Final kilometres
The ramps are steep over the last 7 km. Past Campodolcino, the route ascends in hairpins, through a number of tunnels, up to Pianazzo, travelling the old, narrow road to Madesimo, with punishing gradients. After a relatively flat stretch in Madesimo, the route rises again with gradients nearing 10% over the last kilometres. The home straight is on tarmac road and on a slight incline.
start / finish
climb detail
final kilometres
itinerary timetable
tourist info
Host city:
Verbania
Overview
Verbania is a municipality founded in 1939 when the two pre-existing municipalities of Pallanza and Intra were unified. The town has been the capital of the Province of Verbano Cusio Ossola since 1992. Its territory stretches along the Piedmontese shore of Lake Maggiore, on the Borromeo Gulf, and extends up into the surrounding hills that rise gently up towards the alpine peaks. Lake, hills and mountains constitute the rich proposal of Verbania where you can enjoy a boat trip to the Borromeo Islands, a visit to the stately botanical gardens of Villa Taranto in the center of the city, hiking in the hills, in natural parks or an alpine trekking on Monte Rosa and in the Ossola Valleys. During the 19th century Verbania became the destination of an international élite tourism and the summer residence of the aristocracy and upper classes that led to the opening of the first hotels and the building of sumptuous villas with garden. The city was also the protagonist of an important industrial development and for over a century industry has been the economic base of the whole region. With the crisis of the 70s and 80s Verbania had to win an important challenge and rediscover its natural vocation linked to tourism, trade, craftsmanship, tertiary and floriculture. Today the city is an international tourist destination offering its visitors a wide choice of natural and cultural attractions, a rich program of events and a wide range of accommodation facilities.
Speciality food
Thanks to the winning combination of the gastronomic excellences of lake and mountain, Verbania offers a variety of flavors which it is difficult to resist. For those who love lake fish, unmissable is the experience of a perch, served in exquisite fillets or added as a refined ingredient to a dish of rice; another gastronomic experience is a dish of fried “alborelle” (small fish) or the carpione (fish cooked in vinegar) made with the catch of the day. The typical dishes also include rice, cultivated in the nearby rice fields of Novara and Vercelli, often served in combination with lake fish or in the “Milanese” variant with saffron, which is now cultivated on the hills surrounding Verbania. The Ossola Valley offers a wide choice of salami and dry meats: Mortadella Ossolana, the Valle Vigezzo Ham and Goat Violin (goat thigh and shoulder), the lard at the herbs of Macugnaga, the Mocetta and the Bresaola. Among the local cheeses of mountain pasture, the most renowned is the Bettelmatt whose forms are sold at auction. Numerous and fine the varieties of honeys of the territory: chestnut honey, robinia honey, linden honey, rhododendron honey, to name a few. Honey, cheese, salami and dry meats are served with slices of “black bread” (rye bread) the most famous of which is the Black Bread of Coimo. Verbania typical cookies are: Amaretti di Pallanza (almond cookies) and Intresine, butter biscuits with almonds and hazelnuts. Other famous cookies of the area are: Margheritine di Stresa (butter cookies invented by the pastry chefs of Stresa on the occasion of the first communion of Margherita di Savoia, future queen of Italy) and the Fugascina of Mergozzo (sort of thin shortbread). A wide range of restaurants (two of them awarded with the prestigious Michelin stars), pizzerias, trattorias and farmhouse restaurants invite you to discover the local gastronomy and make the stay more enjoyable.
Drinks
In addition to the famous and valuable wines of the Piedmontese tradition (Barbera, Barolo, Nebbiolo), the territory of Verbano Cusio Ossola offers some local wines produced from the terraced vineyards of the Ossola Valley. Viticulture in Ossola Valley means traditionally Prünent, a local vine similar to Nebbiolo vine whose presence in Ossola has has been historically testified on documents dating back to 14th century. The most popular Ossola wines are: Prünent, Ca’ D’Maté, Baloss, Ossolanum, Tarlap, Cà d’Susana. Under the label Ossola Valli Doc it is possible to produce four different kinds of wines: Valli Ossolane DOC Nebbiolo Superior, Valli Ossolane DOC Nebbiolo, Valli Ossolane DOC Red, Valli Ossolane DOC White. Beer lovers can enjoy quality and niche beers produced by small artisan brewers which offer: spicy beers, mint-flavored beers, beers enriched with rye cultivated in Ossola Valley, or with corn or chestnut honey. The territory of Verbano Cusio Ossola also provide a wide choice of mineral waters (Bognanco, Crodo, Vigezzo) without forgetting the Crodino, the famous non-alcoholic aperitif “invented” and produced in Crodo and launched on the Italian market in 1964.
Main sights
The landscape, with its gardens and parks, is the main attraction of Verbania. The gorgeous Borromean Islands are easily reachable by boat; in the center of the town the Botanical Gardens of Villa Taranto cover an area of about 16 hectares and have a botanical heritage of over 20,000 species of plants from all over the world. Villa Giulia, public park and seat of exhibitions and events, Villa Maioni seat of the Civic Library and Villa San Remigio on the Castagnola promontory are some of the villas that connote the city with their gardens. In Verbania we also find the Natural Park of Fondo Toce, the largest wetland of Lake Maggiore and, in the immediate hinterland, the National Park Val Grande, the largest wilderness area in Italy. Verbania, finalist city for the title of Italian Capital of Culture 2022, and its territory propose prestigious musical and performing arts festivals such as the International Stresa Festival and Tones on the Stones a festival which takes place in the local granite and marble quarries. The futuristic Il Maggiore Events Center, designed by an international team led by Architect Salvador Perez Arroyo and inaugurated in 2016, offers a world-class theater season. The Landscape Museum, housed in the prestigious Palace Viani Dugnani, exhibits the most significant collection of works of art of Lake Maggiore, from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, by artists of international fame such as Paolo Troubetzkoy, Arturo Martini and Mario Tozzi. Verbania’s religious buildings are tangible signs of sacred art: the recently restored basilica of San Vittore, the romanesque oratory of San Remigio, the church of Madonna di Campagna and, in the immediate vicinity of Verbania, the Sacred Mountains (Sacri Monti), declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. To sport lovers the lake offers the opportunity to practice water sports, especially sailing, surfing, canoeing and rowing. Verbania is the native town of Beniamino “Bebo” Bonomi world and Olympic canoe champion (gold medal in Sydney 2000). Verbania is also the birthplace of the world speed skiing champion, Valentina Greggio and of the four-times world cycling champion in individual pursuit Filippo Ganna, also winner of four stages at the Giro d’Italia 2020. The city has been for years a charming location for marathons and sporting events. A series of events linked to the horticultural tradition of the city, such as the Camellia Show and Editoria&Giardini a book fair consacrated to garden, complete the program of initiatives that covers the whole year.
Valle Spluga-Alpe Motta
Overview
Campodolcino, at an altitude of 1070m within the Valle Spluga, is a delightful mountain village above Valchiavenna and is located halfway between the historic town of Chiavenna and the Spluga Pass. An ideal place for a holiday stay in both summer and winter alike. Enjoy an afternoon in the healthy open air, a wander along attractive woodland trails, picnic by the lake. Or head off on some fantastic walks along any number of paths leading to charming villages and through mountain pastures on lofty plateaus, with magnificent views of the valley below and majestic Alpine peaks all around. Far from the confusion of city life, you will discover landscapes both dramatic and seductive, but always where the air refreshes and regenerates and the vitality of traditional flavours warms the soul. Campodolcino is perfect for family holidays throughout the entire year, hosting a full range of sports and cultural activities, and which in winter is the setting-out point of the Sky Express, the underground funicular which takes visitors in just a few minutes directly to the slopes of Valchiavenna’s vast ski area. And around Campodolcino itself there are several lengthy cross-country opportunities suitable for everyone.
Speciality food
Valchiavenna cuisine: a diverse range of propositions including Crotti, characteristic restaurants and yet also more sophisticated environs. Local gastronomy is best enjoyed in the Crotti, originally cold natural stores formed within the rocks themselves. But that’s not all. Consider too starred restaurants awarded by the most prestigious gastronomic guides. The elevation of local products represents a perfect balance between loyalty to tradition and a curiosity, a quest for innovation. Brisaola, as it remains known in local shops, is key to distinguishing the cured meat from that produced in Valtellina. It goes way back. Indeed in 1400 “carne salada” was reported to be in production, the name deriving from “brisa”, a very salty bovine gland. Anyone wishing to enjoy authentic mountain cuisine should taste Valchiavenna’s noted gnocchi, seasoned with rich Alpine butter and Magnocca cheese available in all family-run restaurants and trattorias. And to finish off a hearty “Alpine” repast what better than to enjoy a “cicchettino” or shot of grappa, distilled from the pomace sourced from Chiavenna wine producers.
VIOLINO DI CAPRA
Violino di Capra from Valchiavenna is one of those products that are consumed above all in the cold season. They act as a stimulant for conviviality and represent handsomely that sense of sociability which embodies the very real “school of humanity” of the crotti. But Violino di Capra is anything but a simple cured meat. It comes from an ancient local tradition, always guided by the precise rules for the preparation and conservation of the goat’s leg or shoulder. A tour de force of gastronomy, so much so that it’s deservedly become a point of reference for the Slow Food Presidium. The end result is a cured meat that you don’t find in slices¸ but purchase whole. Its name is essentially taken from the shape, reminiscent of that of a violin, with the leg serving as the neck and the muscle mass the main body. The way in which the meat is sliced, taking away curls of meat using narrow blade knives, is remarkably similar to the action performed by violinists whilst playing. Violino di Capra is a classic of Valchiavenna.
The ancient tradition of the movement of people through and over the surrounding Alpine valleys and passes, from Germany, Austria and Switzerland stimulated, and thus made widespread, the techniques of working and salting meats. But today there are very few craftsmen left who engage with and work this special piece of goat along traditional guidelines. As the Slow Food Presidium reminds us, tradition maintains that “il violino” at dinner should pass from hand to hand so that each of the company would slice off his own portion. There was a time too when the piece would have been aged in the crotti with its perfect, natural ventilation for slow maturation. You can still find this “speciality” in some of the town’s butchers and other nearby traditional venues. Some restaurants organise “violino” tastings or menus inspired by such exquisite meats. But it’s a delight to be experienced in company, taking all the time necessary to appreciate a genuine embodiment of local history.
Drinks
Today there are no longer distilleries at work in the valley, but the heirs of the old “grapàt” are still active in other wine-producing areas of northern Italy. Distillation was a serious activity typical of Val San Giacomo and Campodolcino, in particular during the long winters and many local families were occupied in grappa production. And some who left their native area took their speciality with them and founded important and indeed renowned distilleries, some still in business today. To mention just a handful: Francoli, Scaramellini, Della Morte, Fanetti, Gadola, Vener, but there are plenty of others whose products have left many splendid memories.
Main sights
MUSEUM OF THE VIA SPLUGA AND THE VAL SAN GIACOMO (MUVIS)
A splendid cultural/historical museum painting a vivid picture of the civilisation of the valley (illustrating crafts, traditions and pastimes over the centuries, with examples of typical household furnishings, alongside a section on archaeology, wildlife science, and not least the many famous characters who have passed along the way.) Plus of course the well-documented international role played by the Via Spluga over the centuries. The Museum also hosts the Vallespluga Ecomuseum which points up a range of cultural and naturalistic itineraries for guests to take advantage of.
CA BARDASSA
Cà Bardassa is one of the best preserved rustic buildings in the entire province of Sondrio. It’s a multi-purpose structure dating back to the 18th century, but has earlier sections and 19th century alterations. But it certainly represents a striking example of vernacular architecture in Valchiavenna. That is use of local materials and know-how. A single large gabled roof covered in “piòte” (stone slabs) spans the entire building divided between residence and barn. The basement was designed as a stable for small animals and cattle. Inside there is a magnificent wood-paneled “stüa” with a coffered ceiling and a rose window, along with a “pigna” a pine-cone stonework element for heating covered with a stone slab.
THE STATUE OF OUR LADY OF EUROPE AT MOTTA
Situated in the area of Motta, it is the work of the sculptor Egidio Casagrande and was erected on the 15th October 1957 and inaugurated by the then Cardinal Monini (who was to become Pope Paul VI). It is dressed in gold, stands 13.50 metres high, and was sponsored by countries throughout Europe; at its base stands the open-air Sanctuary of Our Lady of Europe which also corresponds to the centre of the European drainage basin from where the waters flow down to the Mediterranean (Liro, Adda, Po), to the North sea (Rhine) and to the Black sea (Inn, Danube).
At Motta Alta a visit to one of the most beautiful lakes in the entire Alpine arc is obligatory. Lago Azzurro or the Blue Lake, much favoured by poet Giosuè Carducci who was a regular visitor to these mountains over many years, not least for health reasons.
THE BIRTHPLACE OF SAN LUIGI GUANELLA AT FRACISCIO
At Fraciscio anyone can visit the birth home of San Luigi. The oldest part of the house dates back to the first half of the 19th century. Over the years all manner of modifications have been undertaken in order to keep the memory of the Saint alive in his home village. The last renovation took place in 1999 when the house was divided into two parts: the historic one and the residential sector. Today the old part has been established as a museum.
ROMAN BRIDGE AND CAURGA
On the Rabbioso stream, to the north of the Parish church of S. Giovanni Battista, which contains three splendid 17th century altars with a quite remarkable tempera panel from 1500 depicting a Madonna enthroned with child, the so-called “Roman” bridge stands, built by the Romans in the first century AD. The bridge was reconstructed in stone across two arches in humpback form in the second half of the 18th century. On the right side there is a shrine dedicated to the Madonna.
“Caurga” is a dialect expression indicating a narrow and deep incision into rock. Initiating from above and following the direction of the current, the Caurga of the Rabbioso begins just downstream of the bridge at Fraciscio, where between the huge walls of the fissure gouged for more than 300 metres in the gneiss of the Tambò stratum, the torrent has created a series of rapids, whirlpools, air bubbles and erosion potholes due to the exceptional conditions of exposure.
NOT TO BE MISSED
The real beauty of the landscape is epitomised in the basin of San Sisto, situated above the village of Starleggia. A steep path leads you pretty directly to the foot of the San Sisto stone bell tower which is an appropriate lookout position over the Campodolcino valley bottom. At the heart of the Alpine pastures of San Sisto you’ll appreciate some enchanting traditional, rustic wooden buildings known as “carden”. Up and to the left stands Pizzo Quadro proudly at its 3000m, whilst you can head along a gentle pathway to reach the plateau of Pian dei Cavalli at 2200m where human remains dating back 10,000 years were discovered on an archaeological “dig” in 1990, (now on display in the relevant section of the MUVIS museum). For hikers looking for truly heart-stopping beauty we recommend taking the path that leaves the hamlet of Fraciscio and heads for the Alpe Angeloga on the banks of that most tranquil of lakes that bears the same name, right in front of the magnificent Pizzo Stella, a much sought-after mountaineering destination.
